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Activity Notes
Do you have a basic understanding of anchor principles and know how to build a few simple ones? Excellent, let's learn a lot more!
Crafty anchor tricks we’ll cover MAY include (we won’t get to all of these . . .)
Quad anchor, two slings
Quad anchor, double top rope set up
Cordelette: keep it open / untied
Cordelette: using a long cordelette on two bolts close together
Cordelette: bunny ears
Sling anchors: girth hitch master point
Sling anchors: V clove anchor - 120 cm sling and 3 anchor points
Sling anchors: SWAMP anchor - 60 cm sling and 2 anchor points
Using a second “rigging rope” for building a top rope anchor, when anchor points are far back from the edge
Using the climbing rope and BHK (Big Honkin’ Knot) to use anchors that are far from the edge on multi-pitch climbs to bring up your second
Walking the rope around a tree or tossing it over a rock spike, tie a BHK
Double-strand bowline around a tree or rock block
The “Alex Honnold anchor” with the rope: clove to one bolt, butterfly on backside of cove, clove or figure 8 to the other bolt.
Safety near cliff top: friction hitch and figure 8 on a bight backup
“Wrap 3 pull 2”
The cheapskate locker - add some tape
The courtesy anchor
The easy-to-clean top rope anchor - First person up threads the rope through the hardware, and then clips a carabiner onto the bolt hanger
