The Mazamas offers a variety of classes for all ability levels. Learn new skills in mountaineering, rock climbing, first aid, ski mountaineering, and more.
A gorgeous day at Horsethief Butte.
Photo: Tyler Bax
A successful summit of castle dome.
Summit Dome. Photo: Darrell Weston
Rock Gear
We Teach Trad - Advanced Rock 2020
The Mazamas Advanced Rock Course provides high quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes.
Photo: Andrew Holman
Course Format
The Advanced Rock program is comprised of eleven lectures by knowledgeable speakers with hands-on demos or exercises where appropriate. There are seven weekend field sessions plus one optional field session, each coordinated and taught by skilled, experienced climbers. There is also an invitation to rock climbing outings post-class in the spring through fall where you can practice your new skills.
The Advanced Rock program offers you the opportunity to meet new and experienced rock climbers as you learn about climbing areas and destinations. It's a supportive group for learning new skills and challenging yourself to grow as a climber. And don't forget, lots of fun!
| Advanced Rock Skills |
|---|
| Gear Placement |
| Anchor Building |
| Lead Climbing |
| Rock Rescue |
| Mental & Physical Preparation |
| Planning & Execution |
Course Details
Schedule
Advanced Rock occurs from mid to late February through May.
The application period opens on Tuesday, December 3 and closes on Tuesday, December 17.
The Admission test occurs on Friday, January 10, Saturday, January 11 and Sunday, January 12.
Time Commitment/Duration
High/Intense–The AR course schedule requires a significant time investment and you are discouraged from taking on other projects or classes while it is in progress.
Moderate–AR takes place over a period of three months.
Tuition
2020 Tuition: $495 for members and $595 for nonmembers.
Skills Taught
AR teaches trad climbing skills including gear placement, anchor building, lead climbing, rock rescue, mental and physical preparation, and planning and execution of climbs and trips.
The AR class will teach you how to use traditional protection systems, gear, and ropes in the vertical environment. The course is not intended to teach rock climbing technique. All applicants need to have the required prerequisites to be admitted into the class (see below).
Gear
Required prior to class: harness, personal safety, rock shoes, helmet, multiple carabiners, prusik slings, and belay device.
If you already have a full rack of gear, that’s fine. But we discourage going out and buying a whole lot of gear before class. You’ll get to test out a variety of instructors’ gear throughout the class and you’ll learn a lot more about what you like.
Prerequisites
Age 18+
In good physical condition
Actively leading outside in the last year
Comfortable mock-leading a climb rated 5.8 or higher without a take or fall
Have completed ICS Sport Lead class OR have a lead card at a local climbing gym.
Proficient in basic skills of belaying, rappelling, knot-tying, clipping pro, and rock climbing techniques, including:
Belaying: anchoring, climbing commands, belaying from below and above (top belay), belaying with either hand, belaying off the harness and belaying in autolock/plaquette mode off the anchor.
Rappelling: convert a top rope anchor into a rappel.
Knots: rewoven figure-8, butterfly knot, water knot, clove hitch, bowline, double fisherman’s knot, girth hitch, Munter hitch and Prusik hitch.
Application Process
Enrolling in this class involves an application process. This includes personalizing and completing the Climb Resume template available on this page. It also includes completing the application form that is part of step 4 on the Advanced Rock 2020 page. You will need to provide a link to your personalized and completed climb resume as part of that application form.
After the application period is over, the course committee will select qualified students to come in for an admissions test. The top-scoring applicants will be admitted to the class. Notifications usually go out two weeks after the admission test.
You'll need to include one letter of recommendation from an individual who can speak to your personal climbing abilities and skills. This letter must be submitted with your application.
Scholarship Opportunities
We are offering a limited number of scholarships to allow students to participate who will not be able to do so without financial assistance and whose participation can help expand the Mazamas membership base beyond current cultural, economic, and ethnic demographics.
A scholarship is for course tuition ONLY. Mazamas may cover the cost of your course up to 90% of the course tuition based on factors listed above. Other costs associated with the course may apply. You must have access to a computer, smartphone, or tablet to participate in the course. Please see course home page for associated costs and logistics.
Applications for scholarships will be part of the class application. The class/scholarship application period will begin on Tuesday, December 3, 2019 and close on Tuesday, December 17, 2019. Mazamas will contact you with the status of your scholarship application before course acceptance.
Requirements
AR is demanding in terms of time and gear, so apply only if you can make the necessary commitment.
Participation in all lectures and field sessions is required.
Admission Test
The admission test is required prior to acceptance and will test a variety of the skills listed above in prerequisites. You are required to bring your personal climbing gear to this test.
Class Completion
To complete AR and receive the AR badge, a student must:
Attend all lectures and field sessions
Pass the skills test at Horsethief Butte
Successfully participate in three sessions at Smith Rock. More information on this requirement will be available in your student handbook.
Photo: Jon Skeen
