Advanced Rock (AR)

Advanced Rock occurs from mid to late February through May.

The application period is in December.

The Admission test occurs in January.

High/Intense–The AR course schedule requires a significant time investment and you are discouraged from taking on other projects or classes while it is in progress.

Moderate–AR takes place over a period of three months.

2018 Tuition: $445 for members and $545 for nonmembers.

AR teaches trad climbing skills including gear placement, anchor building, lead climbing, rock rescue, mental and physical preparation, and planning and execution of climbs and trips.

The AR class focuses on teaching the use of traditional protection systems, gear, and ropes in the vertical environment. The course is not intended to teach rock climbing technique. All applicants need to have the required prerequisites to be admitted into the class (see below).

Required prior to class: harness, personal safety, rock shoes, helmet, multiple carabiners, prusik slings, and belay device. 

Purchasing a complete rack of gear before the course is discouraged because we work to arrange discounted gear purchases with local shops for AR students.

Age 18+

In good physical condition

Actively leading outside in the last year

Comfortable mock-leading a climb rated 5.8 or higher without a take or fall

Have successfully completed the Mazama ICS Sport Lead class OR have earned a lead card at a local climbing gym.

Proficient in basic skills of belaying, rappelling, knot-tying, clipping pro, and rock climbing techniques, including:

Belaying: anchoring, climbing commands, belaying from below and above (top belay), belaying with either hand, belaying off the harness and belaying in autolock/plaquette mode off the anchor.

Rappelling: convert a top rope anchor into a rappel.

Knots: rewoven figure-8, butterfly knot, water knot, clove hitch, bowline, double fisherman’s knot, girth hitch, Munter hitch and Prusik hitch.

Enrolling in this class involves an application process. After the application period is over, the course committee will select students and notify you if you have been accepted. This selection process usually takes one to two weeks.

The application period is typically in December.

You'll need to include one letter of recommendation, from an individual who can speak to your personal climbing abilities and skills. This letter must be submitted with your application.

We are offering a limited number of scholarships to allow students to participate who will not be able to do so without financial assistance and whose participation can help expand the Mazamas membership base beyond current cultural, economic, and ethnic demographics.

A scholarship is for course tuition ONLY. Mazamas may cover the cost of your course up to 90% of the course tuition based on factors listed above. Other costs associated with the course may apply. You must have access to a computer, smartphone, or tablet to participate in the course. Please see course home page for associated costs and logistics. All scholarship awardees will qualify for select course gear at a discounted rate.

Please click here to apply for a scholarship.  Applications are due by Saturday, November 17th. The Mazamas will contact you with details of the status of your scholarship application.

AR is demanding in terms of time and gear, so apply only if you can make the necessary commitment.

Participation in all lectures and field sessions is required.

The admission test is required prior to acceptance and will test a variety of the skills listed above in prerequisites. You are required to bring your personal climbing gear to this test.

To complete AR and receive the AR badge, a student must:

Attend all lectures and field sessions

Pass the skills test at Horsethief Butte

Receive a minimum of 3 positive instructor evaluations at Smith Rock field sessions of 3 pitches each. There are up to 6 field session days to complete this requirement.