Sunday Skill Builders Advanced Anchors

Activity Notes

Do you have a basic understanding of anchor principles and know how to build a few simple ones? Excellent, let's learn a lot more!

Crafty anchor tricks we’ll cover MAY include (we won’t get to all of these . . .) 

Quad anchor, two slings

Quad anchor, double top rope set up

Cordelette: keep it open / untied

Cordelette: using a long cordelette on two bolts close together

Cordelette: bunny ears 

Sling anchors: girth hitch master point

Sling anchors: V clove anchor - 120 cm sling and 3 anchor points

Sling anchors: SWAMP anchor - 60 cm sling and 2 anchor points

Using a second “rigging rope” for building a top rope anchor, when anchor points are far back from the edge

Using the climbing rope and BHK (Big Honkin’ Knot) to use anchors that are far from the edge on multi-pitch climbs to bring up your second

Walking the rope around a tree or tossing it over a rock spike, tie a BHK

Double-strand bowline around a tree or rock block 

The “Alex Honnold anchor” with the rope: clove to one bolt, butterfly on backside of cove, clove or figure 8 to the other bolt. 

Safety near cliff top: friction hitch and figure 8 on a bight backup

“Wrap 3 pull 2” 

The cheapskate locker - add some tape

The courtesy anchor

The easy-to-clean top rope anchor - First person up threads the rope through the hardware, and then clips a carabiner onto the bolt hanger