Starting with May 1 climbs, Climb Registration Fee includes Mt. St. Helens Permit Fee ($22/person).

This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!

This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.

Activity Notes

Preference to BCEP Students.  Leader has purchased permits for the climb. Find Activity Financial Aid Info here: https://mazamas.org/financialaid/

May 18, 2021 Update Mazamas COVID policy:

We have updated our COVID policies to align with the new guidance from the CDC and the state. Here are the notable changes:

Fully vaccinated individuals (defined as 14 days after your second dosage of the Moderna or Pfizer vaccine, or 14 days after your single dose of the Johnson & Johnson vaccine ) DO NOT need to wear a face covering OUTDOORS.

  • Increase in the number of people allowed in activities/programs.
  • Elimination of the COVID-captain role for use of the MMC.
  • Elimination of temperature check upon entering the MMC; participants are required to self-screen for symptoms prior to entry.

You can find the full Mazama Coronavirus Policy list here  https://mazamas.org/coronavirusresponse/

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 80 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
Distance - Round Trip 12 miles
General Route Info summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks
Useful Links