Mt. Jefferson is the second highest mountain in Oregon, and a notch up in difficulty and commitment than the South side of Hood. The South Ridge is the easiest route, mostly a long ridge of class 3 scrambling. But do not underestimate this route. The last 200 vertical feet are kinda tricky! This route has a long fixed line traverse of an exposed 50+ degree snow field, (very loose scree/rock in late season) followed by a 4th class scramble to the single rock block of the summit. Long days and unexpected bivies are common on this peak. In a big group, 4 ropes and a lot of pickets are a good idea, 3 to fix the traverse and one for the summit block.

This is a limited use area, you will need a permit.

Activity Notes

I have permits for this climb.

We'll hike up past Pamelia Lake and bushwhack up to a camp below the South Ridge.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/111622435/south-ridge This plan depends on snow levels but the effort should make for a shorter summit day. The alternative is to camp at Shale Lake. We'll start very early the next morning and gain the long South Ridge to the Red Saddle where we'll protect the steep snow traverse and 4th class summit pinnacle. We'll camp one more night and hike out the third day. 

This climb involves a very steep, protected snow traverse where we will likely employ a running belay. Slope angle is likely to be 50+ degrees and may feel unnerving to some climbers. Please take that into consideration. before applying The rest of the climb is a lot of class 3 ridge scrambling on the approach to the saddle before the traverse and then some 4th class rock to the summit where we will set a fixed line.

Once skills and experience are accounted for, I make every effort to balance my climbs with team members of different genders and backgrounds. I'm committed to creating safe and fulfilling experiences for everyone in the mountains.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 120 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
General Route Info SummitPost.org; MountainForecast.org; Willamette Nat. Forest, Detroit Ranger District: 503-854-3366
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Interesting Features Spectacular Views
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Jefferson, and Geo-Graphics Mt, Jefferson Google map https://goo.gl/maps/pqJxBofhaCQ2
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
Useful Links