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Activity Notes
Update May 5th Weather discussion: For the 4am start, expect temps in the high 40s, no precipitation and with clouds. By mid-morning, the clouds should clear by 10am. Forecasted light westerly winds 6-8 mph as we approach the summit with mid 40 degree temps. Anticipating the snow to be soft with the Friday's full cloud cover, late morning full sun and light winds. On the way up, we may be traveling on the rock (ridge) if travel is easier. Leader will have a propane fire ring for Friday evening 8pm get together. Recommend having a spare gallon of water waiting for you at the parking lot.
Update May 4th--- No snow shoes. Make sure you have snow baskets for your trekking poles. Crampons needed. Option to wear approach shoes and switch to more rugged mountaineering boots at one of our rest breaks. Uphill travel- The route is snow free up to 6500 ft. Returning back - glissading is possible down to 5,800 ft at the seismic station.
Camping spots are noted here in this LINK in order. Try finding the group in spot #1 overflow lot.
Directions from MMC - travel 205 Northbound to the 503 Exit for Battleground/Amboy/Cougar. There is a rest stop in Cougar if needed. Once past Cougar, take FS-83 to Marble Mountain Sno Park
April 20th Update: Gear list updated. No snowshoes needed. Warmer temps, melted out ridges and wet snow will be best traveled on with crampons early morning. Team meeting 8pm Friday evening in Marble Mount SnowPark where we will car camp in the overflow lot. Bring a cotton shirt or hoodie for firepit.
April 8th Update: 12 permits have been procured. Registration for this climb closed early due to the maximum participants being selected. Climbers and waitlist will be accepted on April 8th. Venmo payment to assistant due by April 18th or your spot will be offered to waitlist (see payment details under leader note). There will be an informal team meeting Friday 8pm in the Marble Mount Snow Park where we will be car camping in the overflow lot for those who choose to arrive early.
** REQUIRES PURCHASED PERMIT ** IF selected, you will be required to purchase a $21, non-refundable, climbing permit. Details to be provided once selected. Due to snow, we will follow the winter route. ~5 mi one way (10 miles round trip) ~5,500' vertical gain Crampons, Ice Axe, Helmets, Snowshoes: required for now but we will make a final determination early in the week of the climb.
You need to know how to use an ice axe and crampons. IF conditions allow, we might glissade. Climb will prioritize 2026 BCEP and Team 02 grads and Mazamas with a history of strong volunteering. We will take a moderate pace, but short breaks. Though not the tallest mountain in the Cascades it is still a quite a long climb/day and you will require endurance to enjoy it. The views however are incredible!
This is the very popular Mother's Day climb weekend. The Mother's Day climb is a tradition that dates back to 1987, which involves climbers wearing festive tutus, dresses and boas to celebrate women in mountaineering. Climb Leader plans to arrive the night before and camp due to the expected large crowds. Anyone arriving the day of the climb may can expect driving delays and parking along the roadway far from the trailhead.
Please review and familiarize with Mazamas Climbing Etiquette
