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There is a tiny remnant glacier on this otherwise all-rock peak, which is one of the few one day alpine rock routes in Oregon. It's a good beginner climb for those who want to see if they like alpine rock routes. Great exposure on the famous "Crawl". Two ropes can be handy for fixing the Crawl and leading the summit block. Bring a few long pieces of webbing to sling rocks for the fixed line anchors, and a selection of large stoppers for rock pro. Leave some water stashed at the climbers trail-PCT junction. You'll want to get an early start on weekends - it can be a long day if the route is busy.
Activity Notes
Original date weathered out; rescheduled very tentatively to 10/4, date will firm up by 9/27.
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This is the second climb of a Mt. Washington + Three Fingered Jack weekend. You may apply to one or both climbs; for logistical simplicity I'll show some preference for those who want both, but will consider every applicant. Don't go for both unless you're up for substantial back-to-back days.
This is a great climb for BCEP grads looking for a taste of technical alpine rock. Basic experience with fixed line and rappel is important, and there are a few mid-5th class moves on the rock, but most of the hazard will be in scrambling loose volcanic rock.
We'll be meeting at the PCT trailhead at Santiam Pass around 3:30 a.m. Sunday. If you are not a Mt. Washington participant (who’ll camp nearby), you’ll probably want to drive down Saturday evening and camp near the trailhead (there are several options).
Prepare for a long day, including a 5.5 mile approach along the PCT, then a steep scramble and careful climbing along a ridge, followed by three pitches of fixed line or belayed climbing on more solid rock to the summit. And then we reverse course.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 130 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/three-fingered-jack/150461 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Three-Fingered-Jack/forecasts/2390 erics base camp trip report and photos http://ericsbasecamp.net/trips/3FingeredJack/3FingeredJack.htm |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Three Fingered Jack, and USFS Mt. Jefferson Wilderness map Google map https://goo.gl/maps/WoPBF24taUD2 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
