Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge

Activity Notes

Original date weathered out; rescheduled very tentatively to 10/4, date will firm up by 9/27.

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This is the second climb of a Mt. Washington + Three Fingered Jack weekend. You may apply to one or both climbs; for logistical simplicity I'll show some preference for those who want both, but will consider every applicant. Don't go for both unless you're up for substantial back-to-back days.

This is a great climb for BCEP grads looking for a taste of technical alpine rock. Basic experience with fixed line and rappel is important, and there are a few mid-5th class moves on the rock, but most of the hazard will be in scrambling loose volcanic rock.

We'll be meeting at the PCT trailhead at Santiam Pass around 3:30 a.m. Sunday. If you are not a Mt. Washington participant (who’ll camp nearby), you’ll probably want to drive down Saturday evening and camp near the trailhead (there are several options).

Prepare for a long day, including a 5.5 mile approach along the PCT, then a steep scramble and careful climbing along a ridge, followed by three pitches of fixed line or belayed climbing on more solid rock to the summit. And then we reverse course.