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Scheduled outside of paid permit seasons, Nov. 1–March 31.
This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!
This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.
Activity Notes
Activity Notes
This is an early attempt to summit Mt. St. Helens just before the permit season starts. The plan is to start early around 6AM (ready to start climbing) from Marble Mountain Sno Park. It is up to you if you come the night before to sleep in the car or if you come that morning.
Depending on weather, snowpack, etc. I assume that we have to use snowshoes for most of our adventure, which will make this a more strenuous activity. I recommend you make sure you did some hikes already that seasons before applying for this attempt. We will probably need around 6-7h to get up, take a break at the summit, and turn around. Glissading might be possible but optional.
We will be carrying avalanche gear including beacons, probes and shovels. Feel free to bring your own gear if you have it or we can borrow from MMC.
After the registration closes, I will reach out to accepted climbers and share a more detailed prospectus, car pool sheet, etc. Reach out to me if you have questions in advance.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 80 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Distance - Round Trip | 12 miles |
| General Route Info | summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
