Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Activity Notes
General information: The first recorded ascent of this peak was in 1853. Mt. St Helens was known to the local Native Americans as Lawelatla, or “Person from Whom Smoke Comes”. Mt St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. St Helens is the lowest and youngest of Washington’s five volcanic peaks. The unique low timberline elevation results from the recent eruptions and from the porous, thick pumice soil. The peak lost 1,312 feet as a result of the famous May 18,1980 eruption. The views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams from the summit can be spectacular. Be cautious of the cornices on the summit crater! This mountain is often underestimated; exposure and route-finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak as serious as any in the Northwest.
References:
Maps: USGS 7 ½ minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA, and Green Trails, Mt St. Helens. (If you get a topo map, be sure it’s 1980 or later. You may have a L O N G climb if you don’t!)<br> Link to St Helens Swift Creek PDF Map File: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-sxPkiT_DOjfkMtb01BMmlQUlM2VXdGakdsLVNWZGczeDc0elNrRGttMlFFYUJOckEteU0<br> Books: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, by Nelson and Potterfield, Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass, by Fred Beckey<br> Web: http://www.fs.usda.gov/mountsthelens/
Weather: https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Saint-Helens/forecasts/2549
Meeting time and driving directions: Drive up I-5 north to Woodland, Washington. Take exit 21, State Route 503, toward the town of Cougar, Washington. You’ll drive through Cougar, and then follow signs to Marble Mountain Sno-Park (for Swift Creek). The town of Cougar is about 28 miles east of I-5, and then about 3 miles further east, you’ll turn left onto Forest Road 83 toward the Ape Cave. Follow FR 83 past the junction with FR 81, which is the road to the climber's bivouac. Continue on FR 83 a few more miles to the Marble Mountain Sno-Park.
Thursday overnight camping at Marble Mountain Snow Park is highly recommended. Leader is car camping at the trailhead. I have found that I can get a better night's rest at the trailhead versus driving up early in the am. Also, sleeping at the trailhead helps with altitude adjustment. Contact the leader if you have any questions.
We will meet and begin our climb here. We’ll meet at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park at 4:45 AM. Allow 2 hours drive time from Portland; note that Hwy 503 has lots of turns and deer crossings. Also, note that the cell coverage is spotty between Woodland and the mountain, and on the mountain itself.
Permits / Fees (Trail, entrance, parking): On our May 5th climb date, a Sno-Park permit is not required (only during the Winter months). All climbers need a climbing permit to be above 4,800 feet elevation on Mount St. Helens. These have been pre-purchased, and will be distributed at the trailhead, where we will sign in (and out) at the climb register.
Climbing Skills Required: Third class snow travel, ice axe and crampon use, and glissading. Anyone going on the climb must be in good condition. Those in poor shape may be turned back at the leader’s discretion. Applicants will need to update your Mazamas profile to reflect your conditioning routine for the past two months. If you have not climbed for a while, you should get out your Freedom of the Hills 9th edition book and review: Snow Travel / Climbing chapters: 16, 17, 18, 24 and 28
Approach, climb, and descent: After a quick team meeting, we will leave the Marble Mountain Sno-Park (elevation 2,700 feet) by 5:30am. We will be in the trees for about an hour, and arrive just under Chocolate Falls, where will take a nice food, water in/out, picture break. This would be a turn-around point for anyone not fit enough for the climb. We’ll then cross the falls, spend another ½ hour or so before we leave all of the trees behind us as we start up the ridge a little more slowly, but steadily. We’ll take about a 5 minute break approximately every hour, when we reach specific flat places along the route. We’ll continue up the route to the crater rim, staying back from the corniced edge, of course! After a summit break for photos and a quick snack if it’s not too cold and/or windy, we will begin our descent, which will be by the same route, with a glissade, if conditions are favorable. You will always have the option to plunge-step down, but if conditions are favorable for a glissade, then the group will wait at predetermined spots for the plungers. The total ascent is approximately 5,600 feet, so be prepared for a stamina-fest!
Preference to BCEP Students and applicants with a history of Mazama volunteering. Leader has purchased permits for the climb. Find Activity Financial Aid Info here: https://mazamas.org/financialaid/
