Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Mt. Shuksan is located approximately six miles to the east of Mount Baker in the North Cascades. While the Sulphide Glacier route is regarded as the easiest route, it can still be a challenge for those who find steep snow and class 3-4 rock with big exposure to be unnerving.
A backcountry permit is required to camp on the preferred Sulphide Glacier campsites. Only 6 parties are allowed each day. Permits are given out first-come, first served beginning the day before. No permit is required to camp lower on Shannon Ridge, but these sites are inferior and may have no water after June.
A USFS NW Forest Pass is required at this trailhead.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 300 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 6 hours |
| General Route Info | USFS Mt. Baker Ranger Station Sedro Woolley (360) 856-5700 This aesthetic glacier climb is made remarkable for its lack to technical difficulty (in spite of the early comments above). The Sulfide Glacier is one of the outstanding moderate glacier routes on a Cascade peak and the route is a straightforward glacier climb for most of its length with brief stretches of ice and steeper snow. However this mountain still harbors the usual potential for serious problems: rapidly changing weather, poor visibility, route finding, problems and crevasse danger. Mt. Shuksan’s claim to topographic fame is that it is the only non-volcanic peak in the Pacific NW whose summit exceeds timberline by over 3,000 feet (Beckey). Avalanches apparently helped name the peak – Shuksan means “roaring mountain” in the dialect of the Nooksack native people. The first peak was first climbed in 1906. See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide for a more detailed look at Shuksan’s geologic and climbing history. summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/sulphide-glacier/155524 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Shuksan/forecasts/2782 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the North Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Rainy Pass to Fraser River by Fred Beckey Climbing Washington's Mountains by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Shuksan, Green Trails Map #14, and US Forest Service Mt. Baker National Forest map Google map https://goo.gl/maps/6iPYsYjhh242 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
