Mt. Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall

As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

This is one of the harder and more committing routes on Mt. Hood - you're a long way from other climbers and outside help. While a one day round trip from Timberline is possible for the fit team (10-12 hours), camping at Illumination Saddle the night before will reward you with great views and an early and well rested start. Bring the backcountry skis for a great ski down after breaking camp. A second ice tool and pickets are mandatory, and bring a few ice screws. Crossing lower Yocum Ridge can be a bit tricky - in some spots 50 degree traversing on hard snow or alpine ice. Once on the headwall, expect about 2,000 unrelenting feet of 50-55 degree snow / alpine ice - a good calf workout!. Running belays or unroped climbing is the way to go on this route.