Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
"Middle" in difficulty between South and North Sister, this is a nice climb with a great approach - just about 5 miles and 1500 vertical feet to great camping at treeline (from the east). A bit of snow travel, gentle slopes, and one pitch of steep near the top make this a good route for those looking for a moderate multi day trip. This approach to Middle Sister is from the Frog Camp/Obsidian Trailhead at 4,750 feet. You will find a beautiful camp area at Arrowhead Lake (44.1705, -121.8127)
From camp you will follow a fairly gentle, 30 degrees or less, grade in snow up to the saddle between north and middle sister. From there, ascend an exposed rock spine to the summit. You are likely to encounter loose rock and one steeper snow pitch. An alternative route from the West side is more of the NW Ridge, more of a boulder-hop staircase than the scree of the North ridge proper.
Activity Notes
Join us for a 3-day climb of Middle Sister with a beautiful approach from the Obsidian Trailhead!
Friday, 8/12: Hike in to basecamp at Arrowhead Lake, about 2,100' gain over 6 miles.
Saturday 8/13: Summit day, about 3,100' of gain. From camp, expect a steady uphill climb on a moderate snow slope. We will rope up to cross the Renfrew glacier. The final summit push will likely be loose scree. We will descent and spend Saturday night back at basecamp at Arrowhead Lake.
Sunday 8/14: We will hike out (with optional side trip to Obsidian Falls) and drive home.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 160 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 3 hours |
| General Route Info | Middle Sister is the fifth highest point in Oregon, offering a variety of routes and stunning views of the central Cascade Range. While the North Ridge via the Hayden glacier is not a technically difficult route, it can be a long day and all party members must be fit and rested. The first ascent was done as early as 1860. All of the Sisters offer opportunities to try out the famous “portable handholds” of the Cascades. Yummy milkshakes and good coffee in Sisters await the returning party. - Deschutes National Forest: Sisters Ranger District (541) 549-7700; Summitpost.org- Middle Sister |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Interesting Features | Glacier(s) |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, North Sister, Geo-Graphics, Three Sisters, and USFS Three Sisters Wilderness |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
