This is an exhilarating and exposed classic alpine ridge rock in the heart of the North Cascades, with about 10 pitches of up to 5.6 climbing and a lot of double rope raps on the way down. Small, competent parties are best on this route. Watch for afternoon thunderstorms! Move fast and watch for rope snags on the raps.

Activity Notes

This is a fun alpine rock climb in the North Cascades. The route is rated at 5.6 with rock typical of the area. The plan is to drive early on the first day and hike in to a camping area near the start of the climb. We climb and maybe exit on the second day (unlikely) or stay overnight and leave the next morning. To be on this climb you must be competent at lead climbing outside at 5.6 or 5.7 level. We will use three rope teams of two each.
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 320 miles
Driving Time from Portland 6 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Cascade Alpine Guide: Rainy Pass to Fraser River by Fred Beckey
Relevant Maps USGS 7.5 minute quad, Marblemount <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Mt.+Triumph&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=40.732051,93.164063&ie=UTF8&ll=48.706511,-121.355109&spn=0.016624,0.04549&t=p&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:>
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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