The Mazamas offers a variety of classes for all ability levels. Learn new skills in mountaineering, rock climbing, first aid, ski mountaineering, and more.
The highest point in Oregon, this route gets the vast majority of Hood ascents. A weekday climb during prime season (early May - late June) can avoid most of the crowds.
The South Side is a general term for several different "chutes" on the south side of the mountain, including the Old Chute, Mazama Chute, and Pearly Gates. The most popular route on an given season depends on the snow accumulation and snow conditions.
The Pearly Gates was the most heavily used route to the summit of Mt. Hood until 2006 when a dramatic shift in the Hogsback and the increased steepness of the this route made the Old Chute the more typical ascent route. The left chute of the Pearly Gates offers a short "step" of steeper snow/ice climbing, while the right chute of the Gates can offer several steps of steeper snow/ice. You cross over the bergschrund to get into the Gates. You can descend by rappelling or downclimbing the route, or by traversing over to the Old Chute.
The Old Chute is a great route to ascend if the bergschrund is impassable or Pearly Gates are jammed with people.
Join us for an early winter climb of Mt Hood. When safe, the pre-season can offer a fresh experience for adepts on this peak. Grab a second tool and hone your steel crampons for a challenge!
- Lead belay and rappel
- Confident on 40° snow with exposure
- Optimism to motivate your teammates and keep them safe
- Fitness to walk with only cursory breaks, ~1000' / hour
While friendly in spring, the southside routes can have ice steps and crevasse potential, needing rope proficiency. To apply you must have:
- Prior alpine rock or ice summit, as second or lead
- Prior mountain summit with glacier travel
Please detail experience in profile. Note especially if you have a gym lead belay card, or graduation from ICS, Mountaineers Basic, or AAI Alpinism II. As a winter climb, expect darkness, continuous high wind, cold and potential need for double boots.
If skies are sunny, bring one item to share for a Hogsback or summit picnic. 🔆 Summiting needs cold weather and quality snow/ice cover.
Apply now, and we'll mutually confirm in future when a date is finalized. Then you'll be accepted and fee processed. For now, hoping for Nov 23 or 24: next likely weekend is Dec 14-15.