Mt. Jefferson is the second highest mountain in Oregon. This route is a complex undertaking with significant routefinding and requires a range of solid mountaineering skills, from steep snow and maybe ice, crumbly exposed rock (love those portable handholds!) and good stamina. Like all Jefferson routes, long days and unexpected bivys can be common.

Activity Notes

Applicants should have a minimum of ICS (or equivalent) and experience on high angle snow or ice terrain, preferably ice experience. This is a demanding route and the pace will be moderately fast so applicants must be in shape to do a 15 + hour summit day at a strong pace with few breaks.
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 120 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
General Route Info This is a challenging climb which has a bit of everything-scree scrambling, glacier travel through crevasses, traverse with exposure, and a rock climb finish. Please review all of your glacier travel techniques, crevasse rescue, and rock climbing skills, especially putting in fixed lines and the techniques for moving on them with prusiks or carabiners and for using a running belay.
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Jefferson, and Geo-Graphics Mt, Jefferson
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
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