The South Face of the North Peak of Ingalls is nice climbs with a few 5th class pitches, good quality rock, great vistas of massive neighbor Mt. Stuart, and an easy approach. The South Face is rate 5.4 and suggested gear is a small rack to 2 inches. Use the nice creek at the trailhead to cool off your post climb beverages. While either of these routes may be done car to car in a day by fast teams, gorgeous backpack camps near Ingalls Lake are available and make for an relaxing weekend. There are three summits to Ingalls, North is the highest. For a more sporting day of climbing, tag the East peak of Ingalls (2-3 pitches of easy 5th class rock), rap to the notch between the east and north, climb the East ridge, and then rap the south face route. Combine one or more of these routes with a West Ridge of Stuart climb for a great Cascades granite 3 day weekend!

Activity Notes

We will leave Portland on Thursday Morning, October 4, drive to the trail head and hike to our campsite in Ingalls basin. On Friday we will arise early and begin our approach to the climb at first light. We will climb in two teams of three. We will finish the climb mid-day and return to camp in the afternoon. On Saturrdy we will break camp in the morning, hike out, and return to Portland.

For this climb you should be comfortable climbing 5.6. You should be able to lead belay and be competent belaying in guide mode from the top. Basically you need to be a competent second for trad climbing.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 275 miles
Driving Time from Portland 6 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume Iby Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Stuart, WA, and Green Trails: Mt. Stuart, WA No 209 <href="http:"" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Ingalls+Peak+WA&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=38.775203,93.164063&ie=UTF8&ll=47.473446,-120.946469&spn=0.016186,0.04549&t=p&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:>
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