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Nelson and Potterfield write, "... the interesting terrain, high alpine splendor and appealing views are guarded by a long, steep dry approach." The climbing is moderate across a large glacier, finishing with 400 feet of 3rd/4th class scrambling to the summit. This peak is near Diablo Lake off of the North Cascades Highway.
Activity Notes
The approach is a maintained trail to pyramid Lake. After that is un-maintained, is difficult and steep and requires veggie belays through tight spots with dense vegetation on steep slopes. We will camp at the pass before Neve glacier which has spectacular views of surrounding peaks and resident mountain goats. Summit will be the following day and return to camp. The summit requires glacier travel that might require route finding this time of the year. The summit is third class scrambling with some fourth class moves and exposure. We will return on day three to the cars and the end of the trip. <br>
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 310 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol. II by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7.5 minute series, Diablo Dam and El Dorado Peak <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Snowfield+Peak&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=40.732051,93.164063&ie=UTF8&ll=48.635404,-121.138473&spn=0.016648,0.04549&t=p&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:> |