One of a handful of alpine rock routes in OR, this is a fairly easy day climb - one short pitch of easy 5th class rock then a scramble to the top. Combine with Three Fingered Jack for an alpine rock weekend. A rappel on the descent is required. Duct taping your boot tops is recommended for the scree descent. If approaching from the west side campgrounds at Big Lake, the maze of trail crossings near the trailhead can be tricky - pay attention on the way in and perhaps mark the right path for the hike out! Enjoy a swim in Big Lake when you are done, and try out the occasionally amazing echo with a yell across the lake at night.

Activity Notes

This is the first climb of a Mt. Washington + Three Fingered Jack weekend. You may apply to one or both climbs; for logistical simplicity I'll show some preference for those who want both, but will consider every applicant. Don't go for both unless you're up for substantial back-to-back days. 

This is a great climb for BCEP grads looking for a taste of technical alpine rock. Basic experience with fixed line and rappel is important, as well as some rock climbing experience, but most of the hazard will be in scrambling loose volcanic rock. 

We'll be meeting at the PCT trailhead at Big Lake Campground, near Santiam Pass, around 4:00 a.m., so unless you want to leave Portland at 1 a.m., plan on driving down Friday evening and camping near the trailhead (there are several options). Those climbing TFJ on Sunday will camp again after the climb. 

We'll use the PCT as an approach to the climber's trail, which ascends the North Ridge to the base of the summit pinnacle. From there we'll climb three pitches of low 5th class but crumbly rock using belays and/or fixed lines. We'll then rappel and down-climb back to the base of the pinnacle, after which we either descend a scree field or retrace our ascent route. Expect about 9 hours of hiking/scrambling and 3-4 hours of belaying, climbing, rappelling, and shenanigans.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 140 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
General Route Info summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/mount-washington-oregon/150570 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Washington-3/forecasts/2376 erics base camp trip report http://ericsbasecamp.net/trips/Washington/Washington.htm
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes, by Jeff Smoot
Relevant Maps USGS 7.5 minute series, Mt. Washington, and Geo-Graphics, Mt. Washington Google map https://goo.gl/maps/yKYhj5khyFT2
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
FIND AN UPCOMING ACTIVITY ON THE Calendar