Mt. Washington, North Ridge

Activity Notes

This is the first climb of a Mt. Washington + Three Fingered Jack weekend. You may apply to one or both climbs; for logistical simplicity I'll show some preference for those who want both, but will consider every applicant. Don't go for both unless you're up for substantial back-to-back days. 

This is a great climb for BCEP grads looking for a taste of technical alpine rock. Basic experience with fixed line and rappel is important, as well as some rock climbing experience, but most of the hazard will be in scrambling loose volcanic rock. 

We'll be meeting at the PCT trailhead at Big Lake Campground, near Santiam Pass, around 4:00 a.m., so unless you want to leave Portland at 1 a.m., plan on driving down Friday evening and camping near the trailhead (there are several options). Those climbing TFJ on Sunday will camp again after the climb. 

We'll use the PCT as an approach to the climber's trail, which ascends the North Ridge to the base of the summit pinnacle. From there we'll climb three pitches of low 5th class but crumbly rock using belays and/or fixed lines. We'll then rappel and down-climb back to the base of the pinnacle, after which we either descend a scree field or retrace our ascent route. Expect about 9 hours of hiking/scrambling and 3-4 hours of belaying, climbing, rappelling, and shenanigans.