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The Disappointment Cleaver route on Rainier is the most climbed route on the mountain, and is among the least technical. With Rainier Mountaineering guiding the majority is their clients up this route, the Cleaver sees a lot the approximately 10,000 annual summit attempts. This is a long strenuous climb (9,000 vertical feet) and demands solid aerobic conditioning. $30 climb fee per person. Call the NPS or see their web site for the latest permit regulations. The Ingraham Glacier route is an alternative often used in early season when avy danger is high on the Cleaver route. Try it on a weekday for more solitude.
Activity Notes
This is a two day Rainier DC climb. Sunday morning we will meet at Paradise Ranger station, distribute gear and get our permits. We will make our way to Ingraham Flats expect 6 to 8 hour hike to about 11,000 feet. We will set up camp and get prepared for our summit day retire early and then leave Monday morning about midnight for our summit attempt. Expect 4 to 6 hours to the summit. We will return back to camp pack up and hike back to the cars at paradise. This is a small team of four due to permitting. All climbers should have climbing experience above 12,000 feet and crevasse rescue experience.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 150 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 3 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Rainier East |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
