Mt. Shasta, Hotlum Bolam Glacier

Activity Notes

At 14,163 feet, Mount Shasta is a serious climb. Applicants need to be fit and be comfortable with snow travel and some exposure.

In addition, Mount Shasta is a long drive from Portland and participants should allow extra time to get to and return from the trailhead.  We are scheduling the climb for Sunday - Tuesday. I'd recommend driving down Saturday and camping nearby. I intend to camp at the trailhead. It has a pit toilet, but no running water. I will bring a 5 gallon jug of water, if folks need some. We will camp a minimum of one night on the mountain and possibly two.  

If the weather does not cooperate on the 15th, we will slide the climb back a few days.

We will meet at and begin the climb at the North Gate Trailhead. We will begin the climb by following the shallow ravine between a large mesa-like lava flow on the left (E), and large, rugged outcroppings on the right (W). 

After our hike in, we will set up camp as high as possible. Depending upon the snow conditions, the climbing route follows the broad snow slopes toward the obvious Hotlum-Bolam ridge. We will ascend until we reach the Hotlum Headwall and then move west toward two obvious rock towers, or “ears.” We will pass these towers and climb through large broken blocks on the ridge and follow the ridge to the summit.  We will descend the same route to camp.  Based on time of day and our energy level we will decide to camp one more night, or hike out and head toward home.

The total ascent is approx. 7,200 feet.