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Activity Notes
The Kautz Glacier route is far less popular than the Disappointment Cleaver and the Emmons-Winthrop routes, so it’s an opportunity to experience the mountain uncluttered by ladders and large parties. It can be a small or a big step up in difficulty depending on the conditions; later season or after a hot spell, the route can require several pitches of ice climbing on terrain that otherwise could be an easy steep snow ascent.
This climb is intended to take a three days: one approach day, climbing from Paradise (5,400) to the Camp Hazard area, 11,000+; a summit day, climbing the Kautz Glacier steps and the summit glacial cap, then retracing the route back to camp; and an exit day. If conditions slow our progress or if conditions recommend it, we might camp lower the first night, ascend to Camp Hazard on a second short day, followed by a summit day and an exit day. We should be able to determine in advance if the extra day is needed.
The Wilderness Center opens at 7:30 a.m., we will meet before then, sort gear, and get in like to get our permit and hit the trail around 8 a.m.
Please make sure your Mazama profile shows your relevant experience. You should:
- Be in good physical shape, preferably with a few recent Hood summits or similar.
- Have experience above 11,000 feet elevation; AMS can catch anyone by surprise, but please avoid this climb if you are prone to it.
- Have experience or training with using two tools (ice axes/ice tools) and pitched climbing/rappelling on ice or steep snow.
- Have experience with glacier travel.
