As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

This is one of the harder and more committing routes on Mt. Hood - you're a long way from other climbers and outside help. While a one day round trip from Timberline is possible for the fit team (10-12 hours), camping at Illumination Saddle the night before will reward you with great views and an early and well rested start. Bring the backcountry skis for a great ski down after breaking camp. A second ice tool and pickets are mandatory, and bring a few ice screws. Crossing lower Yocum Ridge can be a bit tricky - in some spots 50 degree traversing on hard snow or alpine ice. Once on the headwall, expect about 2,000 unrelenting feet of 50-55 degree snow / alpine ice - a good calf workout!. Running belays or unroped climbing is the way to go on this route.

Activity Notes

Please update your profile with the relevant experience as requested below:

1) Participants should know how to use a beacon, shovel and a probe

2) Participants should be in excellent physical shape (1.5 hours or faster to the top of palmer with a 25 lb or heavier pack)

3) Should have climbed Mt Hood in the winter, and have experience climbing water ice. Should have followed and cleaned an ice route, and have experience racking ice screws.

The dates are tentative and might change based on the weather. I will be looking at the next available weather window and will reach out to the potential team over email.

I am ok with everyone carrying skis/splitboard, but non skiers with the above requirements are welcome to join. I might make this a 2 day climb.

 As of January 1, 2024. All climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration. You will not need to arrange for your own climbing permit. Please review our refund policy carefully before registering for any activity.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 65 miles
Driving Time from Portland 1 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, Geo Graphics Mt. Hood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
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