The Disappointment Cleaver route on Rainier is the most climbed route on the mountain, and is among the least technical. With Rainier Mountaineering guiding the majority is their clients up this route, the Cleaver sees a lot the approximately 10,000 annual summit attempts. This is a long strenuous climb (9,000 vertical feet) and demands solid aerobic conditioning. $30 climb fee per person. Call the NPS or see their web site for the latest permit regulations. The Ingraham Glacier route is an alternative often used in early season when avy danger is high on the Cleaver route. Try it on a weekday for more solitude.

Activity Notes

"Of all the fire mountains which like beacons, once blazed along the Pacific Coast, Mount Rainier is the noblest.? John Muir. Who are we to disagree with the pithy quotes of Mr. Muir. This is a two day climb of Tahoma/Mt Rainier via Ingraham Direct which will take place either on 5/26-5/27 Sunday-Monday or on backup window of 6/7-6/8 Friday-Saturday . If the climb doesn't go on these dates due to weather/conditions, climb will, sadly, be canceled. If you're applying to this climb, you commit to all of the above climb dates and the climb plan. 4/28/2024 update - Recent report says that the ID route is not in, we will most likely change the route to Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons. I will update the climb and plan in few days.  Excellent physical conditioning, experience with high altitude, glacier travel, and snow camping are required skills for this climb. Speed and efficient movement will ensure our success, therefore as a team member you're expected to have your layering, nutrition, and uphill speed really dialed in. Summit of Mt Shasta this season will really help you evaluate yourself for this climb and will be a big plus. Please make sure that your climb resume and physical activities section in the profile are up to date. First timers are welcome to apply. If a team member is not able to complete this climb, that's completely fine. However, you won't be turning around alone from the upper mountain. Your rope team will turn back with you. These people may not find time or opportunity for another Tahoma/Mt Rainier climb this season. Please consider this when you apply to the climb. Looking forward to summiting this beautiful mountain with you.  
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 150 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Rainier East
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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