Mt. Hood, Devil's Kitchen Headwall

Activity Notes

THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER CLIMB

Please do not apply unless you have experience climbing ice.

• Experience doesnt mean going to Ouray and TR'ing a couple of laps. Experience can be doing something like Reid HW or Sandy HW, or other backcountry ice where you dealt with AI2-3. 
• You should be familiar with cleaning and racking ice screws
• You should also know how to quickly setup a belay using pickets and/or ice screws. Flaking a rope quickly and managing the station efficiently are essential skills. Do not apply unless you are comfortable with these requirements. These could be acquired through multipitch rock or ice routes.
• Participants should have experience descending the mountain, we will most likely not be protecting if we descend the chutes.

The leader will setup the route on V1 in Bill Mulley's book\

The dates are tentative and might change based on the weather

As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit. Please review our refund policy carefully before registering for any activity.