Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
This climb occurs outside of the paid permit period, (Nov. 1–March 31)
The Monitor Ridge route is the standard summer route, with the trailhead starting about 1000 feet higher than the winter snow park area.
St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater! This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for curent permit regulations, on the Mazamas Links page. Snow park permit required (OR permits are okay) between Nov 15 and April 30.
Activity Notes
The Monitor Ridge Climbing Route is the primary route used by climbers during the summer to reach Mount St Helens Summit. It is generally a non-technical scramble, gaining 4,500 feet in 5 miles. Conditions this time of year can be pretty variable, however, and snow travel (crampons/microspikes/ice axes/flotation) may be required.
As of now climbing permits are not required but last year the period was extended to the end of November.
Most climbers complete the round trip in about 7 to 12 hours. I'm shooting for somewhere in the middle 9-10 hours with 5-6 on the up and 3-5 for the down. I generally like to keep things pretty casual (frequent but efficient breaks, group moving in zone 2) and keep it in the type 1 range of fun if conditions allow!
Accept Applications: ~10/22
Go / No Go Meeting: ~10/31
More details to be provided regarding start time, gear as we get closer to climb date. We will be starting from Climbers Bivouac Trailhead the morning (5-7ish am) of the climb.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 80 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens (If you get a topo map, be sure it’s 1980 or later. You may have a L O N G climb if you don’t! =^) Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@46.1896099,-122.196597,14.11z/data=!5m1!1e4?hl=en |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
