Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Activity Notes
Please be aware that you must be a Mazamas member to apply for climbs.
Koma Lulshan (Mt. Baker), meaning "broken or damaged" by the Lummi tribe of Puget Sound, is the third highest peak in Washington state. The peak stands 15 miles south of the Canadian border. It is considered by geologists to be one of the Cascade volcanoes most likely to show major activity. Fumaroles, thermal springs, and areas of warm ground remind us of that and of the potential for periodic releases of snow, rock and mud from Sherman Peak.
The marine warm air from Puget Sound (just 30 miles away) brings a great deal of snowfall and glaciers which end up feeding three important rivers. Our route will take us over and close to the largest glacier area (Coleman and Roosevelt) and well as the most interesting ice displays (Deming). Next to Rainier, Baker is the most glaciated peak in the lower 48 states.
Due to the glaciation and possible crevasses, all climb members must be fluent in crevasse rescue. Applicants without glacier experience and/or crevasse rescue training will not be considered for the climb.
Approach, climb, and descent:
We will check equipment and try to leave the trailhead by 8:00 am. From the trailhead (3,700 ft) we’ll hike up the trail 2.3 miles to the old cabin site (4,700 ft). We’ll continue on to the Hogback and ascent it to the campsites between 6,000 and 7200 ft depending on conditions. On Summit Day, we’ll get up early for an alpine start. We’ll be roped up right away and ascend the Coleman Glacier (avoiding crevasses) S and SE toward Black Buttes, and then bear to the ice saddle between East Butte and the summit cone. From the saddle (9,000 ft) we’ll climb about 300 ft onto the Deming Glacier and then go around and behind the Roman wall for the finish at the summit. Decent will be the same route.
The total ascent from the trailhead is approx. 7,000 feet.
