Scheduled outside of paid permit seasons, Nov. 1–March 31.

This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!

This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.

Activity Notes

This is a reschedule from March 4, with leader change.

Overview

With the summit elevation of 8363 ft., Mount St. Helens is the lowest and youngest of Washington’s five volcanic peaks. The unique low timberline elevation results from the recent eruptions and from the porous thick pumice soil. The peak lost 1312 feet as a result of the famous May 18, 1980 eruption. The first recorded ascent of this peak was in 1853. The local Native American name of Mount St. Helens is Loowit or Louwala-Clough, which means "smoking mountain".  As we climb we acknowledge the people that were here before us.  Louwala-Clough is listed on the National Register of Historic Places for its vital importance to the Cowlitz Indian Tribe and the Confederated Tribes and Bands of the Yakama Nation. Please learn more about their history at: https://www.cowlitz.org/ and https://www.yakama.com/

While Mount St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific Northwest, it is still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. The views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams from the summit can be spectacular. Be cautious of the cornices on the summit crater!

We will climb the Swift Creek - Worm Flows route, the standard early season route, that starts at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park, and reaches the summit in 6 miles, gaining 5700 ft. of elevation. 

Permits and Fees: Mount St. Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. This climb is scheduled outside of the paid permit season, and a free self-issued permit will be obtained at the trailhead. 

A Washington Sno-Park pass is required and is not available at the trailhead! These can be purchased ahead of time at: https://epermits.parks.wa.gov/Store/SNO/SnoChoice.aspx.                 Select the "Daily Sno-Park Permit" option for $25.  To minimize cost and environmental impact, carpooling is strongly encouraged.

Weather: As the March 18 weekend approaches, we will evaluate the conditions.  If we do not get a weather window that weekend, the climb will be cancelled or rescheduled.

Rough Schedule:

  • 3:30 AM - Meet at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park
  • 4:00 AM - Start climbing
  • 5:00 AM - Reach Chocolate Falls
  • 7:00 AM - Reach the seismic station (5300 ft)
  • 10:00 AM - Reach the summit (the crater rim really)
  • 3:00 PM - Return back to the Marble Mountain Sno-Park
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 80 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
Distance - Round Trip 12 miles
General Route Info summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks
Useful Links