As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

This route is a step up in commitment, difficulty and reward from the standard South side. Early season is best. A second ice tool can be useful, as can ice screws. While a one day ascent is common, camping at Illumination Saddle the night before will reward you with great views and an early and well rested start. Bring the backcountry skis for a great ski down after breaking camp.

Activity Notes

This is a tentative date. We will monitor the weather until we find a window that is favorable. I'll provide updates and confirm who can attend when we select a final climb day. This climb is a step up from the standard south side route in fitness requirements, with a significantly prolonged ascent of 40 degrees (occasionally 45-50 degrees) through the couloir. An ice axe and second tool are required.  crevasse rescue certification is preferred.  Participants need to be in strong physical shape, have climbed the standard Mt. Hood (or equivalent) routes multiple times and have the appropriate gear and comfort for cold conditions and exposure. 
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 65 miles
Driving Time from Portland 1 hours
Distance - Round Trip 7 miles
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Interesting Features Glacier(s)
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, Geo-Graphics Mt. Hood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@45.3724675,-121.7112291,14z/data=!5m1!1e4
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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