High Angle Rescue (HAR) Leader Recert Practice and Assessment

Activity Notes

This is a High Angle Rescue (HAR) recert class for climb leaders who are already familiar and comfortable with the following skills and need to recertify their high angle rescue badge.  

1. Go hands free (with whatever device you use)
2. Release a loaded plaquette (using any acceptable method with backup)
3. Raise a climber (mechanical advantage systems)
4. Ascend a rope (using whatever method you use)
5. Rescue a leader or stuck climber (ascend, pick-off, and counter-balanced rappel only, anchor reinforcement not required as basic skill)
6. Rescue a follower using a counter-balanced rappel pick-off
7. Assist a fellow climber using a tandem rappel
8. Isolate a damaged strand (preferred to passing a knot on rappel whenever possible)

Note: if you feel like you need more practice to be able to demonstrate these skills, please sign up for a 2 day HAR leader recert with more time for practice.

Required Gear:

• Guide-style (plaquette) belay/rappel device (double slot) with large locking pear-shaped carabiner
• Autoblock
• Cordelettes (1) 20’ untied cordelette
• Slings (2) up to 48” slung with (2) non-locking carabiners each
• Prusiks (1 Waist, 1 Leg)
• Personal Pro (Tether) of your choice
• Extra non-locking Carabiners (2)
• Extra locking Carabiners (4)
• Assisted Braking Device (Assisted Brake Device) (GriGri or Similar) if you have one or could borrow one (we’ll have extra and will have an opportunity to practice with these)
• More gear can be added if desired by try to start with less.  Aim for what you would have on your harness for a typical alpine rock climb.

Required Knots (please review before class):

Rewoven figure-8, figure-8 on a bight, double overhand, double fisherman, clove hitch, Munter hitch, Munter mule overhand, girth hitch, Prusik hitch, autoblock, klemheist, flat overhand

Approximate Schedule - subject to change:

• 8-8:15 Welcome and introductions, get harnesses on (or wait until first break)
• 8:15-8:45 Rescue-friendly anchors and design and foundational concepts
  • Review rescue-friendly anchors and design (Triple S)
  • Review of other concepts, Mazama rules, best practices
  • Review types of extended rappel setups
• 8:45-9 Review of knots and hitches for rescue
  • Participants should be prepared to demonstrate all of the following: rewoven figure-8, figure-8 on a bight, double overhand, double fisherman, clove hitch, Munter hitch, Munter mule overhand, girth hitch, Prusik hitch, autoblock, klemheist, flat overhand
  • Review backups and load releasable hitches
• 9-9:10 Break
• 9:10-9:40 Going hands free 
  • Tying off a mechanical belay device
  • Munter mule overhand (MMO)
  • plaquette-style device
  • ABD/GriGri
• 9:40-12 Rescue and assistance from below
  • Convert belay and prepare to ascend with convert to rappel, choice to ascend with any of these
    • plaquette-style (weighted)
    • waist/leg Prusik
    • GriGri
  • Rescue a lead climber with a counter-balanced pickoff rappel
• 12-12:30 Lunch Break (please pack a lunch!)
• 12:30-1:50 Rescue and assistance from above
  • Raising systems - 3:1, 5:1
  • Releasing a loaded plaquette to convert to lower
    • Ratchet lower
    • Load strand direct (LSD) lower (unweighted/weighted)
    • Munter lower
• 1:50-2:00 Break
• 2:00-4:30 Rappelling in a rescue context
  • Isolating a strand (preferred to passing a knot on rappel whenever possible)
  • Passing a knot on rappel
  • Tandem rappel
  • Counter-balanced pick-off rappel for injured follower
• 4:30-5 Wrap up and questions