Located in the central WA Cascades, Sloan Peak is the highest summit west of Glacier Peak. Beckey calls it the €œMatterhorn of the Cascades.€ This climb involves moderate snow and glacier travel and some steeper 4th class rock. Recent reports say the access trail (Sloan Peak Trail # 648) is in bad shape due to a lack of maintenance and avalanche damage. Prepare for up to four river crossings and for attentive navigation to stay on the approach route.

Activity Notes

Travel will be at a moderately fast pace so climbers should be reasonably fit, the hike into basecamp is steep. Meeting at trailhead 11 AM on July 4 (a little over 5 hours from Portland) on July 4 around all grouping at the trailhead and hiking to base camp on Day 1. The route crux might just be the crossing of Cougar Creek at the 0.5 mile mark, finding downed trees to cross over will be key to not getting wet and swimming. Day 2 will be an early start (5 AM, ish), crossing the glacier (route finding can be tricky on this small glacier), then scrambling 3rd class rock with 4th class moves up to the summit (you should feel comfortable on short 4th class sections unroped, the exposure is moderate not extreme). Camp to summit and back to trailhead should be about 10 or 11 hours, then drive home on Day 2 (July 5)

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 260 miles
Driving Time from Portland 5 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Cascade Alpine Guide: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass by Fred Beckey
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Sloan Peak, and Green Trails, Sloan Peak, #111 <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Sloan+Peak&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=40.732051,93.164063&ie=UTF8&ll=48.041509,-121.340089&spn=0.016843,0.04549&t=p&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:>
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