from summitpost trip report: a 5 pitch climb on beeyooootiful granite with moves up to 5.6, a reasonable walk from the car, in sunny northern CA near Mt. Shasta. Sign me up!

Activity Notes

The rock formation known as Mt. Hubris, also known as “The Ogre” (because an ogre’s face can be discerned on the mountain’s face during the approach), is perhaps the most imposing of the Castle Crags, a small group of precipitous granite peaks on the eastern side of northern California’s Klamath Mountains. If the Castle Crags were 2 or 3 times larger, about 20,000 ft. higher, and flanked by glaciers on all sides, they would be right at home in the Karakoram. Although nearby Mt. Shasta commands the attention of all in the area, rock climbers cannot help but admire the Castle Crags and have a yearning to climb them, particularly The Ogre.

No easy route exists up Mt. Hubris, and most opt to climb it via the classic Cosmic Wall a 6-pitch rock climb (rated 5.6, but I’d put it at more like 5.7) put up by none other than the British Himalayan hard-man Chris Bonington. Descent is typically accomplished via two long, steep rappels back down to the base or one rappel off the back side. There would be long lines for this climb in the Valley or in the Meadows, but due to its location, combined with a longish approach, it sees amazingly few visitors.

Due to the challenges of this climb, I will be keeping the climb team to a minimum of 4 and a maximum of 6. This would be an ideal climb for a recent Advanced Rock or Intermediate Climb School graduate. I would be willing to take a couple strong BCEP grads with some rock climbing experience. If you have any questions, email me.


I have reserved two camping sites at Castle Crag State park for Friday and Saturday night. We will split the cost between the team Somewhere between $10-$20 depending on the final number.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 400 miles
Driving Time from Portland 6 hours
General Route Info summitpost:
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Classic Rock Climbs No. 18 Castle Crags, California by Laird Davis (available in the Mazama Library)
Relevant Maps
Useful Links