Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
The most commonly misspelled peak in Oregon and one of a handful of alpine rock routes, this is a fairly easy day climb. It may look quite challenging from the start, but the technical climbing is just one pitch of easy 5th class rock at the top. Duct taping your boot tops is recommended for the scree descent. An apres climb swim in Diamond Lake is recommended.
Known as “the Lightning Rod of the Cascades”, the striking summit of Mt. Thielsen is the 7th highest peak in Oregon. The peak was named for a pioneer road builder, Hans Thielsen. It is similar in age and structure to Three Fingered Jack and Mt Washington, where glaciation and other types of erosion have left a relatively solid exposed plug of basaltic andesite. The plug is excellent rock in contrast to the rest of the mountain, which is generally poor. There is a small remnant glacier on Thielsen, and thus summiting this peak qualifies one for Mazamas membership.
The first ascent was done in 1883.
Activity Notes
Hey Gang,
This is my favorite rock climb for fresh BCEP graduates! I like to camp out the night before and the night after the climb at Diamond Lake so I highly recommend you come join me for that! But in short, this is a single day climb of the Lightning Rod of the Cascades. It's a fairly easy scramble up to the summit pyramid. I will set us a fixed line for you to prussik up to the true summit, and will then set up a single strand rappel for you to come down on. We will then retire back to Diamond Lake for a swim to cool off, then grab some pizza and beer at the Diamond Lake cafe for dinner, and then enjoy a campfire (or likely propane ring fire) that night. I highly recommend you visit Crater Lake the next morning before you head home.
You will need your harness, helmet, prussik with locking carabiner, personal pro, rappel device with locking carabiner, and finally and autoblock with locking carabiner. No need for rock climbing shoes your boots/trail shoes will be sufficient. I like climbing at a mellow pace where you can have a conversation while climbing.
I'm looking for a strong assistant with preference towards leadership development. Hit me up.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 250 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/mount-thielsen/150419 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Thielsen/forecasts/2797 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Thielsen and Diamond Lake Google map https://goo.gl/maps/xg6vS1k4prQ2 |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
