Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Mt. Shuksan is located approximately six miles to the east of Mount Baker in the North Cascades. While the Sulphide Glacier route is regarded as the easiest route, it can still be a challenge for those who find steep snow and class 3-4 rock with big exposure to be unnerving.
A backcountry permit is required to camp on the preferred Sulphide Glacier campsites. Only 6 parties are allowed each day. Permits are given out first-come, first served beginning the day before. No permit is required to camp lower on Shannon Ridge, but these sites are inferior and may have no water after June.
A USFS NW Forest Pass is required at this trailhead.
Activity Notes
Hey Gang,
I've got a single overnight permit for us from July 8th - 9th. The plan is to try and get another overnight walk-up permit for the 9th - 10th when we go pick up our permits. With luck, we will be able to climb to and set up base camp the first night, summit and return to base camp the second night, and hike out the third morning, grab breakfast in town, and head home. If we cannot secure the extra overnight permit, we'll have to break high camp and retreat down to the park boundary about a mile or two below high camp (or go out depending on how the team is feeling. I prefer the three day climb since that means we do not need to be in a rush on summit day.
We will meet up at the Sedro-Woolley Ranger Station (810 State Rte 20, Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284) to pick up our permits on 7/9/22 at 11am. From there we will drive to the Shannon Ridge Trailhead together.
This is a great climb with glacier travel and ~6 pitches worth of 3rd to 4th class scrambling at the summit pyramid. I do not plan to set up fixed lines going up, but will set up single strand rappels coming down. You will not need rock climbing shoes your mountaineering boots will be sufficient. You will need to be familiar with rope team travel, basic rock climbing movements, and rappelling. Lots of technical gear on this one: you will need your harness, helmet, glacier travel equipment & prussiks, crevasse rescue equipment if you know how to use it, and rappelling equipment (autoblock, personal pro, etc.). Be prepared to camp on snow most likely. I like climbing at a mellow pace where we can all be having a conversation while hiking.
I'm looking for a strong assistant with preference to those in leadership development. Hit me up.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 300 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 6 hours |
| General Route Info | USFS Mt. Baker Ranger Station Sedro Woolley (360) 856-5700 This aesthetic glacier climb is made remarkable for its lack to technical difficulty (in spite of the early comments above). The Sulfide Glacier is one of the outstanding moderate glacier routes on a Cascade peak and the route is a straightforward glacier climb for most of its length with brief stretches of ice and steeper snow. However this mountain still harbors the usual potential for serious problems: rapidly changing weather, poor visibility, route finding, problems and crevasse danger. Mt. Shuksan’s claim to topographic fame is that it is the only non-volcanic peak in the Pacific NW whose summit exceeds timberline by over 3,000 feet (Beckey). Avalanches apparently helped name the peak – Shuksan means “roaring mountain” in the dialect of the Nooksack native people. The first peak was first climbed in 1906. See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide for a more detailed look at Shuksan’s geologic and climbing history. summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/sulphide-glacier/155524 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Shuksan/forecasts/2782 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the North Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Rainy Pass to Fraser River by Fred Beckey Climbing Washington's Mountains by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Shuksan, Green Trails Map #14, and US Forest Service Mt. Baker National Forest map Google map https://goo.gl/maps/6iPYsYjhh242 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
