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Mt. Jefferson is the second highest mountain in Oregon, and a notch up in difficulty and commitment than the South side of Hood. The South Ridge is the easiest route, mostly a long ridge of class 3 scrambling. But do not underestimate this route. The last 200 vertical feet are kinda tricky! This route has a long fixed line traverse of an exposed 50+ degree snow field, (very loose scree/rock in late season) followed by a 4th class scramble to the single rock block of the summit. Long days and unexpected bivies are common on this peak. In a big group, 4 ropes and a lot of pickets are a good idea, 3 to fix the traverse and one for the summit block.
This is a limited use area, you will need a permit.
Activity Notes
.If you cannot make the dates of the climb, please cancel your application I do not accept climbers till the week of the climb. I will only accept folks who can confirm by email reply to me that they can make it. Climb of Seekseekqua through the south ridge. Applicants must have experience in overnight summit attempts on some cascade volcanoes like Shuksan and north sister. Applicants must also have experience with steep snow traversals, and being able to climb 4th class rock in mountaineering boots. The summit pinnacle will potentially have snow on it. Good physical conditioning for long days on the mountain are a must.| Other Information | |
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| Driving Distance from Portland | 120 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| General Route Info | SummitPost.org; MountainForecast.org; Willamette Nat. Forest, Detroit Ranger District: 503-854-3366 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Interesting Features | Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Jefferson, and Geo-Graphics Mt, Jefferson Google map https://goo.gl/maps/pqJxBofhaCQ2 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |