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The South Face of the North Peak of Ingalls is nice climbs with a few 5th class pitches, good quality rock, great vistas of massive neighbor Mt. Stuart, and an easy approach. The South Face is rate 5.4 and suggested gear is a small rack to 2 inches. Use the nice creek at the trailhead to cool off your post climb beverages. While either of these routes may be done car to car in a day by fast teams, gorgeous backpack camps near Ingalls Lake are available and make for an relaxing weekend. There are three summits to Ingalls, North is the highest. For a more sporting day of climbing, tag the East peak of Ingalls (2-3 pitches of easy 5th class rock), rap to the notch between the east and north, climb the East ridge, and then rap the south face route. Combine one or more of these routes with a West Ridge of Stuart climb for a great Cascades granite 3 day weekend!
Activity Notes
We will meet at the Ingalls Peak Trailhead 1:30 pm on Sunday, July 25th and hike to our camp site; climb on Monday, July 26th; spend another night, then hike out and drive home on Tuesday morning July 27th. The route is very popular and can be crowded on a weekend, hence the reason for our summit on a weekday. It is possible that we may hike out and drive home the same day as the climb, depending on how the team feels about a late arrival back in Portland. The climb involves an alpine approach, multi-pitch trad climbing skills up to 5.6, and rapelling. Grad preference ICS and AR. Selected assistant(s) will be AR grads who can lead a second rope team.| Other Information | |
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| Driving Distance from Portland | 275 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 6 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume Iby Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Stuart, WA, and Green Trails: Mt. Stuart, WA No 209 <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Ingalls+Peak+WA&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=38.775203,93.164063&ie=UTF8&ll=47.473446,-120.946469&spn=0.016186,0.04549&t=p&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:> |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |