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A serious 5 class route in the remote and rugged Picket range.
Activity Notes
NOTE: We need to obtain a permit on a walk-up basis. I plan on doing that on the 12th. In the unlikely event that we do not get a permit, the backup plan is to continue on to Washington Pass and climb Liberty Bell and Lexington Tower. If you apply for this climb you agree to this plan. This is a climb up the South face of Inspiration peak (rated 5.8). Everyone needs to be able to climb routes at at least a 5.9 at Smith. Each rope team (2 or 3) needs at least one lead (i will lead one team). The rock lead must be comfortable leading 5.9 trad at Smith. The activity can be thought of consisting of 4 significant pieces: the approach into Terror basin is difficult and involves very steep hike up unmaintained trails (think veg belay); approaching the rock tongue that marks the start of the rock climb requires glacier travel and hopefully will avoid navigating a moat; the rock climb itself has tremendous exposure and the descent may require making our own rap stations (though I expect recent webbing to be present); finally, getting out is also challenging.| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 300 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs In The Cascades, Volume IIby Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield Classic Climbs Of The Northwestby Alan Kearney Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 3by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | Google map |