A classic technical Cascade route, this climb has an easy approach (2.5 hours) a spectacular high camp, and demands a variety of climbing skills - glacier travel, good route finding, and efficient fast climbing on 4th and easy 5th class rock. A great alpine route!

Activity Notes

This four-pitch 5.6 alpine rock climb is one of the the 50 Classic Climbs in North America. Ice, snow, solid rock, and alpine scenery all blend together. This a very popular area is the starting point for many climbs, so permits are often difficult to obtain on summer weekends.

Times: 3 hr to camp, 6-9 hr climb to summit.

A classic technical Cascade route, this climb has an easy approach (~3 hours) and a spectacular high camp. This climb demands a variety of climbing skills - glacier travel, good route finding, and efficient fast climbing on 4th and easy 5th class rock. A great alpine route!

Preference given to AR/ICS graduates!

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 310 miles
Driving Time from Portland 6 hours
General Route Info Marblemount NPS Ranger Station 360-873-4590 https://www.summitpost.org/west-ridge/155472
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Cascade Alpine Guide: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the North Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS, Forbidden Peak and Cascade Pass Google map https://goo.gl/maps/XwffGy6pg7w
Useful Links