Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
This route is a fairly popular Mazamas climb, but only because it is the easiest route up a much-desired peak. This a L O N G day up a hot, south facing scree couloir, occasional snow patches and then (finally) fun 3rd class boulder hopping near the top. Minimal technical skills and good endurance are required. Bring at least 3 liters of water if climbing in the late summer. Leave the rope, helmet, harness and pro at home - this is a scramble route. Use the nice creek at the trailhead to cool off your post climb beverages. Early season is a more enjoyable climb on snow rather than gravel. Forest fires are common in this area in the summer - call the USFS before you leave town to be sure the trails are open.
Driving via Yakima and Ellensburg can beat the evil Seattle traffic.
Activity Notes
DRIVING DIRECTIONS
Drive on I-90 to about 1 mi east Cle Elum, then go northeast on SR 970 about 5 mi to 0.5 mi past the Teanaway River Bridge. Turn left on the Teanaway River Road and continue 23 mi to the road end parking area at 4,243 ft, about 1 mi beyond the DeRoux Campground (Forest Road 9737). Car camping is available at the DeRoux Campground and other campgrounds on the Teanaway River Road
APPROACH
From the parking area, hike abandoned mine road/trail for about 0.25 mi to fork in trail. Take the right fork (east) toward Longs Pass. Hike 4 mi up trail over Longs Pass (6,200 ft). Descend to base camp (4,800 ft) near Ingalls Creek. There is no water available on the trail until you reach Ingalls Creek.
ASCENT ROUTE
Cross log bridge at Ingalls Creek. Go east on trail about 0.25 mi to meadow. Can also camp here. Follow climbers trail up meadow and the Cascadian Couloir. Work up the couloir toward upper snow fields of the false summit.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 275 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/cascadian-couloir/156462 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Stuart/forecasts/2869 USFS Leavenworth Ranger station: 509-548-6977 USFS Cle Elum Ranger Station, 509-674-4411 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey (use the new third edition) Climbing Washington's Mountains by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Stuart, WA, and Green Trails: Mt. Stuart, WA No 209 Google map https://goo.gl/maps/haaV1tkGcUN2 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
