Shuksan is located approximately six miles to the east of Mount Baker in the North Cascades. Mssr. Beckey has this to say about this route: €œIt is a clever and tortuous route, not technically difficult, but involving stimulating route finding.€ (Ahh, that €œstimulating€ Beckey route finding!) This route can be a challenge for those who find steep snow and class 3-4 rock with big exposure to be unnerving. There have been some L O N G days spent on this peak by the unprepared. Know the route as best you can and start early.
**Prefer ICS-trained climbers!!
It will be helpful if applicants can list who your BCEP climb leader is/was, if you are new to climbing!!!! Will consider strong BCEP graduates, if I have strong recommendation from your BCEP leaders.
For non-ICS graduate, crevasse rescue training is mandatory, if you wish to be considered for this climb!
Be mindful this is a mixed glacier and 4th class rock climb/scramble, a bit more challenging than the Sulphide Glacier route. The route will join the Sulphide route on the summit pyramid. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann. The Shuksan summit pinnacle is known for rockfalls.
You must have good physical fitness to be active all day in the mountains, multiple days in a row. You should be comfortable at heights and with exposure.
You must be comfortable with loose rocks and multiple rappelling stations on this route. The decision whether to fix line or to do a 4th class scramble is dependent on our comfort level and risk appetite.
Times: Estimated 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 hr camp to summit.