Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
The most commonly misspelled peak in Oregon and one of a handful of alpine rock routes, this is a fairly easy day climb. It may look quite challenging from the start, but the technical climbing is just one pitch of easy 5th class rock at the top. Duct taping your boot tops is recommended for the scree descent. An apres climb swim in Diamond Lake is recommended.
Known as “the Lightning Rod of the Cascades”, the striking summit of Mt. Thielsen is the 7th highest peak in Oregon. The peak was named for a pioneer road builder, Hans Thielsen. It is similar in age and structure to Three Fingered Jack and Mt Washington, where glaciation and other types of erosion have left a relatively solid exposed plug of basaltic andesite. The plug is excellent rock in contrast to the rest of the mountain, which is generally poor. There is a small remnant glacier on Thielsen, and thus summiting this peak qualifies one for Mazamas membership.
The first ascent was done in 1883.
Activity Notes
Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge (Grade II, low 5th class rock)
Novice-friendly climb, but in the cold "shoulder season" (late Fall/early Winter). I will make my best effort to assemble a gender-balanced and diverse climb team.
Physical Fitness:
I am less focused on physical fitness, and more focused on efficiency and anticipatory climbing. I like to keep stops/breaks on the shorter side, even if they're more frequent. I like it when climbers communicate their needs so the team can casually adjust and accommodate them. I like keeping small problems small, and avoiding their escalation into real problems. I don't like "rushing," but I do like steady and efficient. Steady and efficient is how you safely climb in the shoulder seasons.
Some people like hard numbers as examples. The following are examples of solid physical fitness, but not some strict minimum requirement for this climb:
- Climb Dog Mountain with a 25lb pack in 2-2.5 hours -or-
- Climb Mt. St. Helens with a 25lb pack in 5.5 hours
If you're concerned about physical fitness, or pace, email me.
Skill Requirements:
You need some experiences wearing alpine boots all day, know how to put on, and use crampons and ice axe to walk in balance, use cane-position, and have already practiced self-arrest. Be familiar with the 10 essentials, layering approach to clothing, and have an understanding of outdoor activity nutrition/hydration.
No other prior experience or training necessary. At camp, we will teach/review basic rock skills, including rappelling, prior to climbing the route (the day before).
Gear needs:
- Helmet, Harness, rappel device, 2x locking carabiners, 2ft and 4ft tied cordage loop (aka Prusiks)
- Alpine boots
- Crampons
- Ice Axe
- Day pack w/ 10 essentials
- Winter gear/layers/clothing/hats/gloves
- Car camping gear (cold nights)
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As a note, when assembling climbers for a Mazama climb, I deliberately strive for a diverse, and balanced team. I principally take into consideration an individual's physical fitness, skill level for the route, and how they can contribute to the climb team’s diversity. Diversity consideration especially applies to the selection of the assistant and lead climber(s), to help expand the diversity in prospective Climb Leaders in the Mazamas.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 250 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/mount-thielsen/150419 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Thielsen/forecasts/2797 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Thielsen and Diamond Lake Google map https://goo.gl/maps/xg6vS1k4prQ2 |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
