Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Close to the freeway and with an easy approach, this peak gets a lot of attention - by 1991, there were 14,000 ascents! Three easy 5th class pitches gets you to the top. Weekends can be crowded with newbies, so start early or go late to avoid the crowds.
This face is about 330 ft high, above "Pineapple Pass". The steps on this narrow, solid face are steep, interrupted by good belay ledges with stunted evergreens. The route takes small gear to 2 inches, and an ice axe may be needed in early season. This is a classic climb of this area. Its historic names have included Denny Horn and Denny Tooth. The Tooth is formed of Tertiary andesite breccia thermally metamorphosed by the Snoqualmie batholith. (Wow!) See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide for a more detailed look at this area’s geologic and climbing history.
Activity Notes
The Tooth is a classic rock climb on solid rock. It has a few low 5th class moves and an airy “catwalk” traverse on a four inch wide ledge that is a particular attraction. It's a great first alpine rock climb. Our plan will be to drive to the Snoqualmie Pass area on Saturday 9/21 and camp (at either Denny Creek Campground, or at the Snow Lake Trailhead), then do a car to car run up The Tooth on Sunday, 9/22. We will likely be back to Portland late Sunday evening, tired but happy!
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 200 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 4 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/the-tooth/150784 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/The-Tooth/forecasts/1708 Be prepared for extremely S L O W parties ahead of you. Try this climb on a weekday if possible. Get an early start. Rockfall from the last pitch is common, so be sure to wear your helmet at the base of the route. Rack: one rope, five or six medium to large stoppers, five or six medium to large cams (orange / red / black Metolius, Camalot 1 2 3 should do it.) It's about a two-hour hike from the car to the base of the route. Ice ax and crampons might be needed in early-season, but typically not after June. John Godino | February 2009 2. Approx 32 people total on the route Saturday June 6, passed and was passed by multiple teams. Mitigated by numerous alternate (and more fun!) routes up the face, climbers should be prepared to climb 5.5 on fixed line to expedite. Rapping all but the leader off other points can help too. Off-weekend scheduling as suggested in the prospectus is a very good idea. Rockfall does happen. My helmet will testify. Glenn Widener | June 2015 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the North Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | Green Trails, or USGS 7.5 minute series, Snoqualmie Pass Google map https://goo.gl/maps/zRPzqQFFinD2 |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
