The Mazamas offers a variety of classes for all ability levels. Learn new skills in mountaineering, rock climbing, first aid, ski mountaineering, and more.
Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse (grade II, 5.7 sport/mixed, 10 pitches)
NOTE: This climb is part of a leadership weekend retreat, and so the accepted climbers will largely be from the Executive Council, Climbing Committee, Leadership Development candidates, Climb Leaders, and/or instructors from the intermediate and advanced classes.
I have some interest in organizing another separate weekend of Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse that would specifically target recent BCEP and ICS graduates. If you would be interested in those additional climbs, feel free to contact me.
Route Details: Acker Rock is a rock formation in the Umpqua National Forest in Southern Oregon. The Peregrine Traverse route is a long 10-pitch solid, well-protected rock route (bolts + some trad gear), with some significant exposure. The climbing is hardest on the 2nd, and 6th pitches, where it goes at juggy 5.7, and vertical 5.6 (respectively) for about 30 feet in each case. Other than those sections, the climb simmers around the low 5th up to 5.5 grade. It's a long, fun, grand alpine tour of the rock formation, climbing on sticky solid rock, with great views of the surrounding forest. Overall, the route includes a two-mile approach, 10 pitches of mostly mid-5th class rock climbing, two rappels, a fire look-out tower at the summit, and walk-off down the access road back to the cars.
Team Selection: We will climb it as independent teams-of-3 configuration; the team assignments, and other specific climb logistics will be organized and communicated as the trip gets closer (perhaps even adjusted day-of). When I make my final selection for the climb teams, I'll use the following rubric to prioritize accepting climbing members:
- Currently enrolled in the Leadership Development Program
- Currently regarded as a leader in the Mazamas
- Current, and competent with basic rock skills: especially those that have demonstrated they've used/practiced those skills in an outdoor setting
- Current, and competent with lead belay skills: experience counts. I'm looking for a lead belay card from any major local rock gym. For this climb, I need to ensure a supply of at least four reliable lead belayers for a team of 12 on Acker Rock. Not all climbers need to be belayers, in fact I expect there will be recent BCEP graduates that don't have experience lead belaying (that's ok!), but I do need a minimum of four.
- Someone who hasn't climbed Acker Rock
- BCEP 2019 graduate
- BCEP 2018 graduate
- Volunteerism: I like investing in folks that show evidence they want to invest back into the Mazamas. I like people paying it forward. I know it's hard to demonstrate this if you're new to the Mazamas, particularly if you've just finished BCEP. Don't worry about it, I'm realistic and practical about this point.
Logistics: Because Acker Rock is a significant driving distance from Portland, we intend to carpool, and camp/potluck at a nearby campground. We will use some of the down-time at camp to distribute group gear (ropes), and allow climbing teams to meet and coordinate a little, and also have an opportunity to review some specific team-based skills.
Skills: This is not a typical basic level climb. It is a multi-pitch alpine rock climb, that is geared towards BCEP graduates who have spent the summer getting some rock experience. The logistics of this climb require that half of the BCEP level participants will need to be experienced lead belayers-- to be a lead-belayer, you must have a lead-belay card from a local rock gym or an approved equivalent. All participants will need to be current, and competent in all the BCEP rock skills. You should have some experience with those skills in an outdoor setting, beyond what you did during the BCEP class. BCEP wrapped up in April, and this climb happens in September-- that gives you five months to review, and reinforce those rock skills. It also gives you time to gain some rock climbing mileage at the gym/outdoor crag before coming on this climb. With regard to specific rock grades, you should be a casual, solid, and capable 5.9 top rope climber at any of the local rock gyms, and have spent 2-3 days climbing outside.
Please note: The above statement about skills is NOT about being a hardcore rock climber-- but is about having your rock skills well practiced, and dialed.
Questions: If you have questions or want some guidance about your rock climbing or lead-belaying experience, with regard to this climb, please contact me.
As a note, when assembling climbers for a Mazama climb, I deliberately strive for a diverse, and balanced team. I principally take into consideration an individual's physical fitness, skill level for the route, and how they can contribute to the climb team’s diversity. Diversity consideration especially applies to the selection of the assistant and lead climber(s), to help expand the diversity in prospective Climb Leaders in the Mazamas.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me, or the assistant.