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As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
This route is a step up in commitment, difficulty and reward from the standard South side. Early season is best. A second ice tool can be useful, as can ice screws. While a one day ascent is common, camping at Illumination Saddle the night before will reward you with great views and an early and well rested start. Bring the backcountry skis for a great ski down after breaking camp.
Activity Notes
We plan on camping at illumination rock and getting a 3:30 am start on summit day. From illumination rock we will descend to the Reid and traverse to the start of the couloir. We will descend from the summit via the Southside then make for our camp to collect tents etc.| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 65 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Distance - Round Trip | 7 miles |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Interesting Features | Glacier(s) |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, Geo-Graphics Mt. Hood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@45.3724675,-121.7112291,14z/data=!5m1!1e4 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
