The most commonly misspelled peak in Oregon and one of a handful of alpine rock routes, this is a fairly easy day climb. It may look quite challenging from the start, but the technical climbing is just one pitch of easy 5th class rock at the top. Duct taping your boot tops is recommended for the scree descent. An apres climb swim in Diamond Lake is recommended.

Known as “the Lightning Rod of the Cascades”, the striking summit of Mt. Thielsen is the 7th highest peak in Oregon. The peak was named for a pioneer road builder, Hans Thielsen. It is similar in age and structure to Three Fingered Jack and Mt Washington, where glaciation and other types of erosion have left a relatively solid exposed plug of basaltic andesite. The plug is excellent rock in contrast to the rest of the mountain, which is generally poor. There is a small remnant glacier on Thielsen, and thus summiting this peak qualifies one for Mazamas membership. 

The first ascent was done in 1883.  

Activity Notes

Recommend an overnight camp at Diamond Lake the night before (7/26) for an early start single-day climb of Thielsen on Saturday.  I will prepare a fixed line to prussik to the summit spire and single strand rappel back off.  We can spend the afternoon swimming at Diamond Lake, eat pizza, and have another overnight at the campground if desired.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 250 miles
Driving Time from Portland 5 hours
General Route Info summitpost mountain forecast
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Thielsen and Diamond Lake Google map
Useful Links