The Mazamas offers a variety of classes for all ability levels. Learn new skills in mountaineering, rock climbing, first aid, ski mountaineering, and more.
The highest point in Oregon, this route gets the vast majority of Hood ascents. A weekday climb during prime season (early May - late June) can avoid most of the crowds.
The South Side is a general term for several different "chutes" on the south side of the mountain, including the Old Chute, Mazama Chute, and Pearly Gates. The most popular route on an given season depends on the snow accumulation and snow conditions.
The Pearly Gates was the most heavily used route to the summit of Mt. Hood until 2006 when a dramatic shift in the Hogsback and the increased steepness of the this route made the Old Chute the more typical ascent route. The left chute of the Pearly Gates offers a short "step" of steeper snow/ice climbing, while the right chute of the Gates can offer several steps of steeper snow/ice. You cross over the bergschrund to get into the Gates. You can descend by rappelling or downclimbing the route, or by traversing over to the Old Chute.
The Old Chute is a great route to ascend if the bergschrund is impassable or Pearly Gates are jammed with people.
This will NOT be an overnight climb. So get some sleep at home during the day. We will meet at the MMC at 8pm on 5/18. Shooting for a 10:30pm departure from Timberline.
Summit protection: You will prussik up a fixed line to the summit and then single strand rappel back to the top of the Hogsback.
Just FYI: I plan to be re-certifying my Crevasse Rescue during the day on May 18th on Mt. Hood, so I will just stay at the Mazamas Lodge or sleep in my truck and meet the team at Timberline around 10pm.