Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
The second highest peak of the Olympic Mountains, Deception climbing is described in the guidebook as "steep, exposed and quite serious". Early season climbing (before July 1) is strongly preferred to avoid what Smoot's guidebook calls "nightmarishly loose rock". This is NOT a casual walk up scramble peak, Camp in upper Royal Basin, about 1 mile above Royal Lake, for much better views, less bugs and fewer crowds. There are 2 good group camps sites here on large gravel bars, next to the tarn. A direct ascent of the NE gully route is the most straightforward, with about 5-6 pitches of 45-50 degree snow. A competent team can solo this with caution. Coming down this way would be . . . exciting. This peak can be easily combined with neighbor peak Mt. Mystery for a nice double on a 3 day weekend. Backcountry permits and bear cans are required in Olympic National Park. Ask for a permit in Upper Royal Basin, not Royal Lake. Bring treats for the nice backcountry rangers.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 210 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 4 hours |
| General Route Info | Summitpost - https://www.summitpost.org/mount-deception/151109 Possible place to rent bear canisters is called Wild Birds Unlimited, in the small town of Gardenier, at Hwy 101 mile post #276. call first! This is not a route for beginners. There is some extremely sketchy loose rock on downsloping exposed slabs, with very few places for pro. |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountains by Olympic Mountain Rescue Climbing Washington's Mountains by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | Custom Correct Maps, Grey Wolf - Dosewallips and Buckhorn Wilderness, USGS Mt Deception, Green Trails #136 Google map https://goo.gl/maps/YittZYd9wbC2 |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
