As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

Devils Kitchen Headwall should only be undertaken when it is covered by ice and snow. It is relatively straightforward under winter conditions, the maximum angle being somewhere between 55 and 60 degrees. Start from the Hogback and traverse right about Devils Kitchen. Climb the headwall using one of several gullies. A second ice tool is recommended. From the top of the headwall, follow the upper 3 pitches of the Wy'east route to the summit.

Activity Notes

Mt. Hood / Devil's Kitchen Headwall (grade II, high angle snow, WI-3+) This climb requires moderate-to-strong physical fitness... This climb will involve ice climbing... ------------------------------ As a note, I deliberately focus on selecting a diverse, and gender-balanced team when selecting applicants to my climbs. I take into consideration an individual's physical fitness, sufficient skill level for the route, and how they can increase the diversity of the climb team. This especially extends to the selection of the climb assistants, and lead-climbers, in order to open opportunity for their training as future leaders in the Mazamas. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me, or the assistant.
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 65 miles
Driving Time from Portland 1 hours
General Route Info A challenging climb up one of the Devil's Kitchen gully routes.
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, GeoGraphics Mt. Hood On the Mazama<href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="Climbing and Hiking map page" www.mazamas.org="" your="">Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
FIND AN UPCOMING ACTIVITY ON THE Calendar