Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse

Activity Notes

Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse (grade II, 5.7 sport/mixed, 10 pitches)

*** some participants will be required to lead belay, see the "Skills" section below ***

Route Details: Peregrine Traverse is a long 10-pitch solid, well-protected rock route (bolts + some trad gear), with some significant exposure. This route will make for  fun and exciting all day rock climbing in an amazing alpine setting. We will climb it as independent teams-of-3 configuration; the team assignments, and other specific climb logistics will be organized and communicated as the trip gets closer (perhaps even adjusted day-of). The route includes a two-mile approach, 10 pitches of mostly mid-5th class rock climbing, two rappels, a fire look-out at the summit, and walk-off back to the car.

Team Selection: When I make my final selection for the climb teams, I'll use the following rubric to prioritize accepting climbing members:

1. Current, and competent with BCEP/basic rock skills: especially those that have demonstrated they've used/practiced those skills in an outdoor setting since taking BCEP
2. Current, and competent lead belayer: experience counts. I'm looking for a lead belay card from any major local rock gym. For this climb, I need to ensure a supply of at least four reliable lead belayers for a team of 12 on Acker Rock. Not all climbers need to be belayers, in fact I expect there will be recent BCEP graduates that don't have experience lead belaying (that's ok!), but I do need a minimum of four.
3. Someone who hasn't climbed Acker Rock
4. BCEP 2018 graduate
5. BCEP 2017 graduate
6. Volunteerism: I like investing in folks that show evidence they want to invest back into the Mazamas. I like people paying it forward. I know it's hard to "demonstrate" this if you're new to the Mazamas, particularly if you've just finished BCEP. Don't worry about it, I'm realistic and practical about this point.

Logistics: Because Acker Rock is a significant driving distance from Portland, we intend to carpool, and camp/potluck at a nearby campground. We will use some of the down-time at camp the night prior, and morning of the climb to distribute group gear (ropes), allow climbing teams to meet each other and coordinate, and also have an opportunity to review some specific team-based skills.

Skills: This is not a typical BCEP level climb. It is a multi-pitch alpine rock climb, that is geared towards BCEP graduates who have spent the summer getting some rock experience. The logistics of this climb require that half of the BCEP level participants will need to be experienced lead belayers-- to be a lead-belayer, you must have a lead-belay card from a local rock gym or an approved equivalent. All participants will need to be current, and competent in all the BCEP rock skills. You should have some experience with those skills in an outdoor setting, beyond what you did during the BCEP class. BCEP wrapped up in April, and this climb happens in September-- that gives you five months to review, and reinforce those rock skills. It also gives you time to gain some rock climbing mileage at the gym/outdoor crag before coming on this climb. With regard to specific rock grades, you should be a casual, solid, and capable 5.9 top rope climber at any of the local rock gyms, and have spent 2-3 days climbing outside.

Please note: The above statement about skills is NOT about being a hardcore rock climber-- but is about having your rock skills well practiced, and dialed.

Questions: If you have questions or want some guidance about your rock climbing or lead-belaying experience, with regard to this climb, please reach out to Matthew Sundling (matthew.sundling@gmail.com), Joshua Lupkin (joshual@seradesign.com), or Jay Satak (jsatak@gmail.com).

For all other questions, please contact the leader (matthew.sundling@gmail.com) directly before applying.